Battery health sets the price. At the bottom of the market two cars of the same year can be thousands apart, and the battery is usually why. Ask for the state-of-health figure: a Leaf shows it as a 12-bar gauge beside the charge meter, and a LeafSpy report is better still. Above 85 percent is healthy; below 70 percent means noticeably shorter range, and the price should reflect it.
Age matters in other ways too. Most sub-$15k EVs are Japanese imports from 2013 to 2017, well past their factory warranty. Check the import and service history, and look at how the car fast-charges: Leafs use CHAdeMO, which most NZ public fast chargers still offer, but check the sites on the routes you drive.
Road user charges are the same for everyone. Since April 2024 battery EVs pay RUC like diesels: $76 per 1,000 km (NZTA rate, checked 4 October 2026), so about $760 a year at 10,000 km. It is the same per kilometre whether the car cost $10k or $60k, which makes it a bigger share of the running cost on a cheap EV. When you buy, check the RUC label on the windscreen: it shows the odometer reading the car is paid up to, so you know whether you are inheriting credit or a debt.
The 24 kWh Leaf trap. The cheapest listings are often 2011 to 2015 Leafs with the original 24 kWh pack, rated at under 200 km when new. After a decade, many manage well under 100 km of real driving, and a replacement pack usually costs more than the car is worth. One can still be a great town car if the battery health and your daily distance fit, but buy it on the battery figure, not the price. Leaf battery health by generation shows what each pack is doing on the market today.